Ben Willis's reputation as Canberra's chef-to-watch continues. His seasonal menu brings a wide range of ingredients to harmonious heel in a succession of highly orchestrated dishes. Take his buckwheat risotto,a soupy pool of buckwheat flecked with corn and shreds of blue swimmer crab and topped with sweet,sauteed sand whiting. It's a beautiful play of delicate against earthy and yielding against robust. Sparks fly when bright green pea mousse,tart green tomato jelly and crunchy pumpkin seeds meet the crunch of a fried zucchini flower filled with goat's cheese;and blackberries pop against rich duck sausage and breast,bedded on a soft puree of red cabbage and piped parsnip cream. A dessert platter arranged with parsley ice-cream,slivers of ripe,aromatic peaches,toasted almond cream,batons of rich financier and fresh blueberries is compulsive viewing. Like the food,the elegant tiered dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows is perfectly suited to special occasions,and makes any occasion special.