Hang on,shouldn't fine dining be stiff and poncy,all tablecloths and starch? Walking into the split-level hubbub of diners at Aubergine,you'd think you were in a buzzy bistro instead of such a celebrated restaurant. Until you crunch into a feather-light beetroot crisp,that is,or pick up the frankly awesome wine list. A whip-smart entree combines veal tartare with parsnip,sweetbreads,a touch of bitter cocoa and crisp,soft-yolked quail egg;while another of tommy ruff fillets is an artful scattering of grilled octopus,globe artichoke and jamon. Everyone gets plate envy when a rib-eye of beef turns up,with snow-white waves of smoked potato puree and bone marrow vinaigrette. And how good to see quince on a menu,as a spiced terrine with creamy curd,oatmeal biscuit and immaculate fig-leaf ice-cream. Classy,flavour-first food and a cheery lack of pretension make this not just a big night out but a fun night out,too. BYO Monday to Thursday.