At some point during a meal at Yan – perhaps after you’ve slipped on a pair of black gloves to pull apart glistening smoked pork butt (inspired by Hunan-style red-braised pork,no less) to heap onto steamed pancakes,or you’ve marvelled at the crunch of fried enoki – the pastry section will erupt in a plume of liquid nitrogen,a mixer whipping up cloud-like coconut sorbet to be piled atop a coconut filled with young coconut jelly and juice. “Can I have one?” You’ll ask. And waiters,conspiratorial and charming,will nod knowingly.

But there’s plenty beforehand:delicate pickles to cut the pork’s richness;braised winter melon with rubbly,fiery chilli sauce;sesame-dressed tofu skin,served cold for refreshment. Meanwhile,sharp cocktails,house sodas and teas play seriously delicious support. Yan? Yes.

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Taste of Shunde

Regional Chinese cooking with epic signatures and Canto classics.

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