Shusai Mijo’s $165 weeknight menu is one of the more affordable high-end omakase options around,and is just as exciting as meals that cost double elsewhere. You’ll experience the same gliding service and hushed reverence for the chef as he appears from behind the kitchen curtain.

Jun Oya’s talent is with texture and subtlety when it comes to sauces,custards and the like. Sakizuke is a chilled dish of firefly squid,snow crab and octopus with a glossy dashi jelly. Silken chawanmushi is topped with sliced abalone,baby scallops and maitake mushrooms.

Miso soup accompanies the sushi course,where Oya hands you one glorious bite of raw fish after another. There are just three cocktails,but the sake list is a thing of great wonder. At weekends the price increases and there are more luxury ingredients such as foie gras,wagyu and caviar.

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Melbourne’s Northern Suburbs

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