Ceviche. Leche de tigre. Anticucho. How well do you know your Peruvian classics? Alejandro Saravia is as fluent as it gets,the Peruvian having first opened a South American restaurant in Sydney in 2011. This time ’round,the chef has the majesty of the heritage-listed GPO building as his stage.

Goldband snapper ceviche is a blast of lime,ginger and chilli,accented with cubes of sweet potato and roasted corn kernels (be sure to toss it first). Grill-crisped ox-tongue skewers get a beautifully emulsified carretillera sauce bright with sundried Andean chillies,and white corn plays a big role – in snacky arepas and as a lush puree underpinning brined chicken.

Morena captures the playful spirit and hospitality of Latin America,right through to a delicate coconut sponge with coconut cream and dulce de leche,capped with a wafer-like oblea.