The snacking is serious at this cheeky young sibling of fine diner Pilot. Laminated scrolls lifted with ’nduja,sun-dried tomato,honey and garlic are crazy-good,as is hunky Jersey cheese from Goldstreet Dairy on jammy red peppers that glow like rubies.
Half bistro,half wine bar,this is a place as good for pre-theatre bites as it is as the main act. Dishes have the same symbiotic connection with wine that you find at Melbourne’s Embla,and managerCaitlin Baker runs a dynamic list of by-the-glass pours to go with an opinionated 30 pages of minimal intervention wines.
Mains can be weighty (potato pierogi,say),but they’re always wine-friendly,especially the barbecued spatchcock with “Old El Paso” flavours and sweet corn.
The pavlova of set cream,meringue and boozy jelly,meanwhile,is cleverly designed to send you straight back to the list for a glass of natural sparking rosé.