A kaleidoscope of Thai food is coming into focus in Melbourne. Pa Tong adds the bold spices and pungent flavours of the country’s south in a screeching-blue room where macramé lampshades are bright tokens from the beach. A gallery wall does the rest of the job of spiriting diners to Patong,a resort in Phuket,but it’s the food that’s truly transporting.

Adventure – snail curry,anyone? – and seafood dishes are key to this coastal cuisine. Grilled mackerel adds body to a beguiling coconut curry with acacia stems and green almonds. Crab omelette is outstandingly fluffy.

Springy hor mok hides under clay lids;lift them to reveal steamed curried fish mousse. Leaves from the melinjo tree,indigenous to Asia,lend sweet nuttiness to rich grilled pork neck and fried egg. This is a great spot for solo diners and lunch deals are keen.