Expect to feel very welcome at Philhellene. Walls are adorned with family photos and memorabilia,staff are chatty,and the buzz of the contented clientele fills in the gaps. New owners took over in May 2023but,knowing the power of this long standing go-to,changed very little.

Those in the know order chalkboard specials,perhaps warmly spiced rabbit stifado stew or slow-roasted kid goat with broad beans. Youvetsi is a seafood cornucopia of prawns,scallops and calamari served with charred citrus and risoni,and meltingly tender lamb leg is paired with lemony roast potatoes and peas.

Kalitsounia,golden pastry parcels from Crete,come filled with myzithra (whey cheese),feta and fresh mint. Complete the feast with honey-drenched loukoumades orekmek kataifi,a miracle of shredded filo and velvety layers of custard,cream and pistachio,then staggerout the door.