Is it OK to put pineapple on pizza? Roccella steps into the debate with an emphatic “yes”,so long as the result is extraordinary. Chef Francesco Crifo takes a slow-matured base made with artisan wheat flour,and scatters charred,smoke-infused pineapple over the top,then layers it with prosciutto,stracciatella and a glaze made with balsamic vinegar and roasted pineapple juice.

It’s an argument-stopper in eight delicious slices and reflects Roccella’s approach:classic,creative and customer-centred. The welcome is effusive and the all-day offerings are boosted by a handy Italian grocer.

Apart from pizza,there’s a sturdy starter of fried polenta fingers,a spin on chicken parma made with quality bird and buffalo mozzarella,while casarecce with mussels,barramundi and clams is a generous winner. Sfinci,the sugar-dusted Sicilian doughnuts,make for a fine finish.