Jollied up with a bright red-and-yellow paint job,this big,family-style pizzeria is fired up with expectation that you will appreciate the different cooking techniques on show. Waiters confidently explain how three types of oven produce subtle differences in the pizzas at your table. From the wood oven comes the restaurant's signature dish,a charry,chewy margherita made to an authentic Naples recipe,using wonderfully sweet Italian San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. The Italian stone-based oven makes a sturdier crust to carry,for instance,smoked trout with a zing of thinly sliced lemon. For a cheeky nod to local tastes,the electric conveyor oven churns out a Hawaiian,but happily it's topped with thin circles of ham rather than piled high with the processed stuff. There's a refined approach to toppings;capricciosa is carefully dotted with artichoke hearts and mushrooms. Coffee jelly and Kahlua dominate a reinvented tiramisu that's as smooth as moonlight over the Bay of Naples.