A traiteur,boulangerie and bistro rolled into one,Loulou has carved out its own slice in a relatively starved lower north shore market. Or should that be three slices? The first for morning viennoiserie,the second for charcuterie,the third for French fare without the kind of cliche that leaves so many wannabe bistros stuck in a mire of cosplay and coq au vin.

Here,the classics are a starting point rather than an end goal. Fat-capped chicken liver parfait is ultra-smooth,primed to spread on warm brioche with salted marmalade. Beef tartare,blanketed in chives,is sparingly dressed,in thrall to the quality of the meat,vinegar-dusted chips bringing acid and crunch.

Lamb du jour could use the same attention,but John dory set with scallop mousse in champagne sauce still brings the house down. To go with it? Chablis and Sancerre in the glass,charm and insouciance on the floor. Squint,and it just might be Paris. (Boulangerie and traiteur open daily.)

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North Shore and Northern Beaches

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