In the 30 years since Tetsuya Wakuda landed in Sydney,his name has become synonymous with the rise and rise of Australian fine dining. The clean,minimalist rooms of his heritage-listed Kent Street temple enclose the calm of an exquisite Japanese garden,reflecting the restrained refinement of the Wakuda style. The 10-course degustation is full of seafood love,with delicate sashimi of yellowfin tuna scattered with tiny garlic chips and given a beautifully sweet hit from shishito peppers,followed by lightly grilled scampi tail drizzled with walnut vinaigrette,gracefully paired with a curl of chicken liver parfait. A tiny roast quail breast on a coiled,grilled spring onion,topped with a sliver of jamon iberico,is a miniaturised treat,while salted cream-cheese ice-cream brings drama to a bitter-sweet double chocolate pave. A touch more warmth in the cool,overly rehearsed service - and in the room temperature - would lift an experience that should be a compulsory addition to any food-lover's bucket list.