In the leafy,grassy oasis of Woollahra's Chiswick Gardens lies a long,low pavilion,once the iconic address for weddings-christenings-bar mitzvahs. These days it's all about easy,appealing food,tight-rowed tables,warm yellow lamp light,outdoor nooks and bar stools,and a gleaming open kitchen complete with wood fire. Garden notes frolic across the menu,whether in teensy herb garnishes,a peppery parsley vinaigrette or a garden salad that's truly worthy of the name,squeaking with just-picked greenness. Flavour is here by the spade-load - in translucently delicate duck ravioli or crunchy brandade balls with a feisty tomato sauce. Ten-hour Moran family lamb flops off the bone,whole chooks glisten,fabulous steak shows off its wood-fired crust,while a perfect pork chop sits snugly with seeded mustard,roasted apple and vinegary celeriac straws. Only awkward (yet willing) service takes the edge off. Oh,and a fridge-y blueberry bombe Alaska.