Sitting at the back of the well-groomed Chiswick Gardens,the one-time Pruniers looks for all the world like a beautiful,gleaming glasshouse. Appropriate really,considering that the latest offering from Aria's Matt Moran and Peter Sullivan has its own working herb and vegetable garden of 150 square metres. Chiswick puts a whole new slant on'farm to table',with not only produce from the garden but also superb grass-fed beef and lamb from the Moran family farm near Bathurst. A salad of rosa radish,marinated cucumber and goat's curd is just plain showing off,and silky-soft veal ravioli are lightened with microherbs,broad beans and baby nasturtium leaves. Share dishes are the go - whole snapper or a slow-cooked shoulder of brined,wood-roasted lamb,the meat cleaving to the fork. Once you've hoed into the rather generous Caramelia chocolate/caramel eclair with sugar plums,a brisk walk around the gardens might be in order.