For a quarter of a century,Melburnians have favoured this brooding room for first dates,anniversaries,business lunches and pre-show tables. Staff have an innate sense of how much cash,or time,you care to spend and the wine list is just as accommodating.

A deep range by the glass spans the truly special and the more smashable. Chatter rises off other tables sharing doily-dressed plates of crisp salt cod croquettes and cannoli-like cigars plump with apple and spanner crab. Sea bream,firm yet delicate,is another seaside postcard,signed off with crisp cauliflower florets and pops of finger lime.

Superbly pink duck,driven by Sichuan pepper glaze and bittersweet kumquats,is no wallflower. Don’t waste that sauce – say yes to bread. Warm chocolate fondant topped with salty peanut ice-cream closes proceedings with the breezy poise that regulars expect.