Taxi is no shrinking violet. Perched above Fed Square,the lofty dining room mixes jaw-plummeting vistas with look-at-me furnishings,including orb-like chandeliers,industrial mesh panels and daring disco lights. Tony Twitchett's menu cherry-picks flavours and techniques from Japan,China,Thailand and beyond to create bold,cutting-edge food. Chopsticks replace cutlery for starters of sake-cured tuna in punchy yuzu dressing,and tempura-prawn sushi wrapped in yuba (soy-milk skin) and served with dabs of miso mayo. Crisp-skinned barramundi partners tempura soft-shell crab,sparked up with a punchy little salad,and sriracha-chilli sauce spiked mayo;but a fragrant coconut curry might be marred by too-tough duck. Dreamy desserts,perhaps caramelised pear with delicate pear sorbet and a drizzle of Pedro Ximenez,show a return to form. Service,too,is tight and highly tuned - time is given to linger over aperitifs and wines between courses,making for a well-paced dinner even when there's a full house.